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What are the major differences between corespun threads like Perma
Core® and D-Core® and spun polyester threads? What effect does using one versus the other
have on the quality of your sewn products? |
Corespun
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Corespun threads
are made by wrapping a staple polyester or cotton wrapper around a
continuous filament bundle of polyester fibers during spinning,
and then plying these yarns into a sewing thread. The continuous
filament polyester core makes up approximately 60% of the thread
construction. This core contributes to:
-
Higher strength
per size or tenacity.
Greater
uniformity in size, strength, and other physical
characteristics.
A higher
initial modulus or resistance to stretching or better loop
formation.
Better ply
security.
Superior
abrasion resistance & durability.
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The wrapper of a corespun thread can be either staple polyester or
staple cotton. The wrapper gives the thread a fibrous surface that
contributes to:
A softer “hand” or
feel than a 100% continuous filament thread.
A matte finish
stitch appearance similar to a spun thread construction.
Superior frictional
characteristics compared to a CF thread.
Poly wrapper contributing to:
Superior color fastness, chemical, and abrasion resistance.
Higher strength than cotton wrapped corespun threads. - Superior “union dyeing” because of one-step dyeing process.
Cotton wrapper
contributing to:
A “wash-down” stitch appearance.
Core threads
are recommended for the most demanding sewing applications from sewing
fine blouses that are susceptible to seam puckering, to denim products
that will be stone-washed or sand blasted.
Both A&E’s Perma Core® and D-Core®
are made with our patented NTT process that contributes to fewer
sewing interruptions on the production floor versus the competitor’s
corespun threads. Perma Core® NWT and D-Core® NWT are also
available to help minimize repairs after harsh finishing process. NWT
stands for New Wash Technology and relates to the
innovative improvements that we made to both Perma Core® NWT and D-Core® NWT to meet
our customers’ more demanding finishing processes used throughout the
world.
As you can see from the data shown above that compares
the percent repairs after finishing, Perma Core® NWT and D-Core® NWT are the
best corespun products made in the world for sewing denim and twill
garments that will be subjected to harsh finishing processes. Even
though corespun threads are normally more expensive than spun
polyester threads, in most cases the total cost of thread is actually
less when you consider the costs related to loss of sewing efficiency
on the production floor and the repair costs in the laundry.
Spun Poly
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Spun Polyester
threads are made by spinning 100% polyester staple fibers, and
then plying these yarns into a sewing thread. Spun Polyester
threads are normally made in a two or three ply construction
depending on the yarn size. A&E uses our patented NTT process in
the manufacturing of our premium spun polyester sewing thread
brands like Perma Spun® and Excell®. |
Not all spun polyester threads are alike in performance
characteristics. In some parts of the world, local thread producers
make spun polyester with antiquated ring-twisting equipment, as
compared to the superior 2 for 1 twisting technology used today by
A&E. The benefits of this technology are fewer major imperfections
that can cause thread breaks and even needle breaks. Other
significant differences between A&E premium spun threads and local
produced spun polyester threads exist and therefore we caution manufacturers
to shop wisely. The disadvantages of using local spun threads often
include:
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Disadvantages of Local Spun
Thread |
Fiber & yarn construction inconsistency:
Some local thread companies shop around for the
cheapest yarn available from different yarn spinners.
Most local yarn spinners use old technology for spinning that contributes to
excessive yarn imperfections.
Excessive yarn imperfections will contribute to
more thread breaks, re-stitched seams and poor seam appearance.
Dyed with low energy dyes that have inferior
color fastness.
Color inconsistency from lot to lot.
Poor lube application:
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Below is a physical
comparison between Perma Core® NWT, D-Core® NWT, and Perma Spun®. This
information is based on averages and should not be used as minimum
thread specifications.
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Perma
Core® |
|
Tex Size |
T-18 |
T-24 |
T-30 |
T-40 |
T-60 |
T-80 |
T-105 |
T-120 |
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Yarn Size |
59/2 |
45/2 |
35/2 |
29/2 |
18/2 |
15/2 |
12/2 |
15/3 |
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Avg. Strength (Lbs) |
2.1 |
2.7 |
3.5 |
4.5 |
4.8 |
9.0 |
10.6 |
13.51 |
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Elongation (% at
Break) |
21.5 |
20.5 |
21.5 |
21.5 |
24.2 |
24.8 |
26.3 |
25.7 |
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Shrinkage: |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
BW |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
|
HA |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
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Loop Strength
(Lbs) |
2.7 |
4.0 |
5.2 |
6.3 |
11.6 |
13.3 |
15.8 |
20.5 |
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D-Core® |
|
Tex Size |
|
T-24 |
T-35 |
T-40 |
T-60 |
T-80 |
T-105 |
T-120 |
|
Yarn Size |
|
46/2 |
33/2 |
29/2 |
18/2 |
15/2 |
12/2 |
15/3 |
|
Avg. Strength (Lbs) |
|
2.2 |
3.0 |
3.6 |
7.1 |
7.6 |
8.0 |
11.3 |
|
Elongation (% at
Break) |
|
20.0 |
20.4 |
22.6 |
24.3 |
23.4 |
23.5 |
24.5 |
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Shrinkage: |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
BW |
|
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
|
HA |
|
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
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Loop Strength
(Lbs) |
|
2.9 |
4.0 |
4.6 |
9.3 |
10.6 |
11.2 |
15.8 |
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Perma Spun® |
|
Tex Size |
T-21 |
T-27 |
|
T-40 |
T-60 |
T-80 |
T-105 |
T-120 |
|
Yarn Size |
53/2 |
43/2 |
|
29/2 |
19/2 |
14/2 |
16/3 |
16/4 |
|
Avg. Strength (Lbs) |
1.6 |
2.1 |
|
3.2 |
4.7 |
7.1 |
9.7 |
10.6 |
|
Elongation (% at
Break) |
16.1 |
16.3 |
|
17.0 |
18.0 |
18.6 |
19.9 |
18.5 |
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Shrinkage: |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
BW |
<1% |
<1% |
|
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
<1% |
|
HA |
<3% |
<3% |
|
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
<3% |
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Loop Strength
(Lbs) |
2.7 |
3.1 |
|
4.8 |
7.9 |
11.3 |
15.1 |
16.9 |
If you study
this physical data information, you can see that corespun threads
generally have a much higher single-end breaking strength than premium
spun polyester sewing threads.
Caution, physical data comparisons do not always tell the whole story
when it comes to thread performance. For example, both the NTT and NWT
enhancements to A&E corespun threads do not show up in the physicals
listed above. That’s why A&E developed a data collection tool called
ANETRAK® for comparing actual sewing performance on the sewing floor or repairs in
the laundry.
Summary
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No perfect sewing thread exists for all sewing
applications. Obviously from the information discussed above, corespun threads are clearly superior sewing threads when compared to
spun polyester sewing threads. On performance garments, this will
definitely make a difference in the quality of your finished product.
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Many manufacturers have
found that they can integrate their thread usage by using a
combination of corespun and spun polyester threads. Because overedge
seams consume the most thread, they will used spun polyester on these
operations while continuing to using corespun threads on all
topstitching and stress seam operations. A&E has developed ANECALC™
for comparing the total thread cost per garment when using different
thread combinations. Remember, ANECALC™ will only help calculate the
thread price per garment and not the total thread cost related to the
performance of the sewing thread.
For more information about A&E threads, please contact your local A&E
representative or call our Technical Service Department.
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